Sunrise at Carpinteria State Beach a few weeks back. A cool campsite—our tent was only 20 yards from the pound of the ocean. But not really true camping—little kids all around, right in the town of Carpinteria, and no solitude really. But for it’s proximity to Rincon (only 5 minutes away), the site is ideal for a weekend surf venture northward.

Let’s face it: living somewhere with palm trees is being fortunate. If the palm trees are surviving, then you’re getting a healthy dose of vitamin D year-round. They sway with the wind, they add a certain island aura to life, they bear coconuts, and when booming with friends up on a rooftop at night they’ll dance along with the music for you. But you’ve also gotta remember this: places like Georgia have palm trees, so choose your palm tree destination accordingly.

Board-breaking glorified closeouts. That’s what you see in the above image. Really shallow water, unruly backwash, and no real defined sandbars were the cause of death for my friend Dy-lan’s DHD quad on this trip. First session of the trip we hit up C Street and got some fun ones that unloaded from the point into the beachy. After setting up camp further north we watched the break out front looking like this but a bit smaller (this shot is from the same morning of the above sunrise image). No one else in the water, we decided to give it a go. Dy-lan got the first one, big dumpy closeout. Thought he had broken his favorite board. The next wave he got was just too much for fiberglass and polyurethane foam to handle, and she snapped clean in half right through the middle. I pulled into a few myself throughout the next few days, but there was that fear that if Tarpits could take one board, it’ll most likely take another—and I wasn’t about to risk breaking my only rideable board I own at the moment. That being Dy-lan’s only board on the trip, he sat on the beach the rest of the time. I parted ways with the beachy at Carpinteria State Beach being washed in by a 10-foot sneaker set and having not even a chance of making it out of a single barrel—not sure if I wanna surf there again or not…

The Sun Sleeps
The big ball of fire resides in the sky.
It begins its decent from way, way up high.
A unification of congruous tints: orange, blue, and yellow.
I can’t figure out if it’s saying goodbye or hello.
Where does it go when the moon appears?
Does it run and hide in fear?
Or does it simply say goodnite,
and go to sleep until it brings the morning light?

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